Valentines Day is one of my favourite holidays in the year! It’s just so lovely to send people cards and notes to tell them how much you love them, don’t you think?
This year, I decided to try something a little different and make some folded heart cards. Years ago my sister made me a card like this (out of neon yellow paper!). I thought it was so cute, so I thought I’d replicate them this year to give to people…but not in neon yellow! If you need a last minute card, this is a nice and simple one that only takes a few minutes. It is similar to origami, but since you cut the paper, I don’t think it truly counts as origami. Nevertheless, it is a cute design and only requires a rectangle of paper and a ribbon if you’d like to tie it shut…keep reading for how to!
How to Make a Folded Heart Valentine Card
Step 1: All you’ll need for this card is a piece of paper that is twice as wide as it is tall- example 3” x 6”, 4” x 8” etc. You can make it as small or as large as you’d like! If you’re sending it in the mail, make sure you don’t make your card too big to fit in an envelope!
Step 2. Mark the centre of the paper. You don’t have to make a line all the way down like I have in the photo- a small tick at the top will be fine, since this will be the inside of the card!
Step 3. Fold one edge of the paper into the centre and crease
Step 4. Repeat with the other edge of the paper.
Step 5. Fold the bottom edge diagonally into the centre to form the bottom of the heart.
Step 6: Repeat on the other side, to finish forming the bottom of the heart.
Step 7: Take your ruler and mark where the middle of each side is. For example, this card is 3” wide, so I am marking at 3/4” and 2 1/4” .
Step 8: Fold the top edge diagonally where you have marked, to start creating the top of the heart.
Step 9: Repeat with the other side.
Step 10: Now fold down the flaps diagonally. You won’t be able to fold the back of the card yet, but we’ll do that in the next step! We will now cut where the dashed line is in the photo.
Step 11: Now that the back of the card has had a small cut, it will be able to fold diagonally to finish forming the top of the heart.
Step 12: Repeat on the other side.
Step 13: I had a hard time photographing this step, but open the card slightly and “pop” the folded parts inside out, so they are now folded inside the card.
Step 14: Now you are finished folding! Go along all the edges and crease them again, so you’ve got a nice crisp edge.
Step 15: If you’d like. You can tie a ribbon around the card to hold it shut. You could also seal it with a sticker (or a wax seal if you’ve got one!).
There you go: a quick, easy Valentine card to show someone you care!
Another special touch, is a matching envelope. I made these envelopes out of coordinating papers- they’ll add such a cheerful pop of colour in my friends’ mailboxes!
Do you like Valentines Day? What are your plans this year? Did you send cards or plan on giving cards to your friends?
Less than a week before Easter, I realized that the dress I was planning to wear on Easter Sunday required a petticoat, and that I did not have a petticoat which I could wear under it.
I have one longer length 29″ starched crinoline which I got at a thrift store a few years ago, and it works perfectly for the few 1950’s tea length gowns I have. Because of the longer length, this crinoline doesn’t work for my “regular” length skirts and dresses though, which are usually somewhere around 24″-25″ long, so a few years ago, I also invested in a Doris Petticoat. I decided to buy a Doris Petticoat because I had seen several other bloggers wearing them, and they are so, so pretty since they are made of over 36 metres of fluffy and soft nylon lingerie netting and ruffles. There could be nothing more perfect in my mind than a peach coloured ruffled petticoat, so I decided to buy the 21″ length one, and then waited expectantly for it to arrive. Imagine my disappointment when it arrived and I discovered, when I tried it on, that it was simply too full for the majority of my dresses! I did have one circle skirted dress it fit under, so I wore it with the petticoat a few times. I realized though, that while I do love the extremely full and dramatic silhouette of the 1950’s, for some reason, I felt very self conscious when wearing an extremely pouffy skirt for daywear. When I see pictures of other vintage ladies, I never think that their skirts are too full- but as soon as I am wearing one, I feel a bit unsettled. Give me a ridiculous hat and I will walk tall and proud- but an extremely wide petticoat makes me nervous! (Oh, and so sorry that my massive skirt with a mind of it’s own just bumped into your priceless vase. . . )
So, with great reluctance, I stuffed the petticoat back into it’s bag and hid it in the back of my closet so I wouldn’t feel bad every time I looked at it. It came out of hiding a few times for costumes etc. but not as a regular part of my wardrobe.
Well, back in October I was reading Lily’s blog, Mode-De-Lis, and she shared a post about different styles of petticoats and what kind of shape they give and how she liked them. She had altered her Hell Bunny petticoat with a cotton yoke, so that it would be more comfortable, and suddenly I realized that I should alter my petticoat! Fast forward to the week before Easter, and I realized that it was time to enact Operation: Save the Petticoat.
I was a bit nervous cutting apart my petticoat: after all what if I ruined it?! But then I realized that it wasn’t doing any good unloved and unworn in the back of my closet, so I decided to go ahead with the petticoat alteration. Here is how I altered it and ended up turning it into two separate petticoats of different lengths, which can also be worn together, if needed someday in the future.
The first step in the petticoat alteration, was in creating a yoke. I decided to create a yoke because, like Lily, I found the elastic waist to be rather bulky, as well as shifty. I was always afraid that it was going to slide down and poke out the bottom of my skirt. Creating a yoke, solved this problem by making the top fit smoothly and securely, while also reducing bulk. (Because who wants bulk right at their waist?)
I made the top out of a few scraps of cotton in our scrap bin (exactly enough to make this yoke- so keep those scraps- you never know when you might need them!) In order to create the shape, I took a basic skirt pattern, traced it and then figured out where I wanted the yoke to end, which was 8 inches down. I then cut out the fabric at this length.
I decided to French seam the side seam, as I wanted this to be perfectly finished inside and out. For the other side (the opening) I pressed the seam allowance in, to cover all the raw edges, and then sewed up from the bottom about an inch. At this stage, I tried it on to see if I could pull it up over my hips, and over my head (before I got it all sewn together and discovered that it was too short or something).
Once I had made sure that the yoke fit well, I turned under the seams and topstitched to finish neatly. To finish the top edge, I had thought about creating a facing, but then decided to cover the raw edge with bias tape instead. Bias tape was my mom’s idea and was a lot quicker than creating a facing, and it made a nice edge without too much bulk. Once that was done, it was time to add the petticoat ruffles.
I took apart the elastic waistband/casing of the petticoat, which left me with a tube of tricot with ruffles sewn on either end. I then measured up from the hem to the length that was required. Since the yoke was 8″ and the finished length I wanted was 24″, I measured up 16″ and added 1/2 inch for a seam allowance. I pinned all the way around, (since I currently don’t have a fabric marker) and then cut neatly all the way around.
Once the piece was cut, I was left with a very short and wide petticoat 🙂 Now it was time to sew the petticoat to the yoke. As the petticoat was wider than the yoke, I just eased it in as I sewed without worrying too much about it if I got some pleats in the fabric. Once I had sewed the petticoat on, I serged the edge of the seam to give it a nice finished edge.
With that, the petticoat was done, except for buttons. I decided to do small buttons and button loops, so I marked where my buttons needed to be, and then created thread loops using this method below. With that, the first petticoat alteration was done!
After I had made this first petticoat, I decided I might as well take the remaining half and create a shorter one. I don’t like my petticoats sticking out below the skirt, so I thought that creating a 21″ petticoat would be perfect for those few dresses I have which fall at exactly knee length. For this one, I decided to simply sew some wide lingerie elastic around the top and call it done. But, of course that would have been too easy, right? When I tried this shorter petticoat with my dresses, I realized that the fullness had too much of a rockabilly flair and I am simply not a rockabilly girl. The petticoat was too full for it’s length, and so I realized that (horror of horrors!) I needed to reduce the fullness. So, now began Operation: Dismantle the Petticoat.
When Doris Petticoats tells you that their petticoats are made up of more than 36 metres of fabric, they are not kidding. The first step in this petticoat alteration was in taking the bottom tier off of the petticoat, which resulted in more than 17 metres of ruffles!
I decided to reduce the fullness of the petticoat by about a 1/3 as I figured that would be enough, and I wasn’t sure whether reducing it by 1/2 would be too much. I cut the bottom tier at 12 metres and then came to the odious task of regathering the nylon back onto the top tier (while also distributing the fullness evenly all the way around; so I wouldn’t end up with an unevenly shaped petticoat that was fuller on one side!) This probably took the better part of 2 hours to do. Once it was all regathered, I pinned it within an inch of it’s life- and then went to bed! 🙂
In the morning, when I was ready to tackle the job again, I took the petticoat and ran it through the serger. This took care of the edge seams, as well as sewing both pieces together all in one step. I did end up with some areas that missed the stitching, since it was a massive amount of fabric to work with- so I ran it through twice.
Once the tiers were all gathered back together, I was almost done. All that was left was to sew the skirt back onto the elastic waistband. I sewed it near the top, to get the proper length, and was initially planning to sew two rows- one at the top and one at the bottom of the elastic for stability. However, when I tried it on, the elastic accidentally flipped inside out and I realized that if I left it with one row of stitching I could flip it in or out depending on which length of skirt I was wearing. It is now essentially a convertible petticoat! Yay!
So, after all that, I ended up wearing the convertible petticoat for Easter Sunday, as it turned out to be the perfect length to wear with my Easter dress which is a bit on the shorter side.
I was at first nervous to cut it apart and attempt a petticoat alteration, but I am so glad I did! After two years of owning it, I now have a petticoat that I can actually wear. I have worn it a couple of times now with my knee length skirts, and it adds such a nice fullness, shape and swish to my skirts. It was amazing how simply reducing the amount of ruffles in half made such a difference. I think now, that my petticoats are going to get a lot more wear from now on!
Have you ever altered something you purchased that didn’t work out for you the way you had hoped? Would you ever make or alter a petticoat?
You can see what a difference the petticoat gives to the shape of this dress. The perfect amount of “pouf”!
In one of the later season’s of Foyle’s War, (a British crime drama set in the 1940’s, which I highly recommend, by the way, if you enjoy murder mysteries and period wartime dramas) there was an episode where the character of Sam is seen discussing shoes with a coworker. Her coworker had recently purchased a pair of “coupon busters”, which were an ingenious pair of shoes that came with detachable heel covers and shoe clips. The heels and clips could transform the single pair of shoes into three different pairs, simply by removing the sensibly shaped heel cover, which made the shoe appropriate for office wear, to reveal the more sensuously curved heel which was perfect for evening. Adding a shoe clip to the toe created yet another fashionable look.
I don’t know if coupon busters were a real invention in wartime Britain, as a way for women to stretch their rationing coupons, allowing them to purchase one pair of shoes, instead of three separate pairs, or not. I couldn’t find any information about them at all. I think that coupon busters are rather a clever idea though, and it really is too bad that they are not being made today. Even though we don’t have to worry about rationing coupons today, I would love to be able to transform one pair of shoes into three, wouldn’t you?
Although a manufactured shoe like this is not readily available, there is, however, an easy way to transform the look of your shoes, and that is by wearing shoe clips. Shoe clips are one of those accessories that have wavered in and out of fashion throughout the years. Shoe buckles were very popular in the 18th century, not just for function, but fashion as well. In the 1950’s shoe clips rose in popularity with the invention of proper shoe clip hardware. My mom had shoe clips in the 1980’s, and I remember a few years ago they were a trend again. However, they are not a common thing to see for the most part. I really don’t know why, as they are so fun and versatile, and can transform your shoes into a completely new look. I personally think they make your shoes look like “princess shoes”- don’t princesses always seem to have big bows and what-have-you on the toes of their shoes?
I have been wanting to find shoe clips for years, at least five years now, as I got these coral flower decorations with the express intent of attaching them to shoe clips. However, apparently shoe clip hardware is an impossible thing to want, and I could never find any for sale. I put the flowers aside and forgot about them, until recently, when I found them again in my craft stash, and got the idea to look online to see if shoe clip hardware was available. Sure enough, on Amazon I found a pack of ten pairs of clips! Score! I immediately pulled out the flowers, and set to work creating several different pairs of shoe clips. I mean, I do have ten sets of clips now, so I can make a lot of pairs of shoe clips. At this rate, I’ll never have to wear the same pair of shoes again! 😉
I thought that since shoe clips are such a versatile accessory to change up the look of your shoe, I would demonstrate with two pairs of shoes. Shoe clips work best on open, classic style shoes that don’t already have too many details, straps or embellishments, and they work equally well on heeled or flat shoes. Here you can see how shoe clips transform the look of the shoes and lend themselves well to any occasion.
First up are these navy peep toe pumps. I wear these shoes a lot as navy is such a versatile colour, and this pair is so comfortable. They are a plain and serviceable shoe, so you’ll see how much they change just by adding some clips.
Round pom-pom flowers turn these into statement shoes. These are Cinderella shoes for sure- don’t they look like something the Disney princess would wear?
Did you know you can also use clip-on earrings as shoe clips? You have to be careful with which ones you use- I have some pairs which have too weak of a clasp, or come up too high above the edge of the shoe, but some pairs clip on rather nicely to add some sparkle. Both of these, the brown and the green are clip-on earrings I seldom wear, but I think they work rather nicely to dress up the shoes. Clip-on earrings are also much easier to find than proper shoe clips.
These are true shoe clips which I found at an antique sale. They add just the right amount of sweetness, sparkle and vintage flair. Vintage stores and sales can be a good place to look to find real shoe clips.
Now here are my black pumps: they have a band across the toe which has sparkly gems on it, but you’ll see that they still work rather well with shoe clips, because of the open shape of the shoe.
Here are the coral coloured flowers. I absolutely love the shape of these as they are very “princessey” too. Unfortunately I have very few clothes that go well with the colour, so that is definitely something I’ll have to change!
I think that bows work really well for a vintage look. Bows were a very popular shoe decoration in the 1940’s, and they have a very classic look about them. Bows that are the same colour as the shoe, work very well for daywear as they look like part of the shoe.
The last set of shoe clips are these ribbon flowers I made. They add a nice splash of colour, yet are small enough to be discreet.
And case you would like to make some shoe clips for yourself, here is how:
I used a pre-made flower for these, but some of the others I made from scratch. Attach your decoration to a felt disk, either by sewing or gluing it on. Once it is attached, you can then sew your shoe clip onto the felt. Attach it near the top of the disk, so the decoration will sit lower on the shoe. Clip them onto your shoes and enjoy! I got my shoe clip hardware off of Amazon- if you search “shoe clip blank” it should bring some up for you. I am sure there are other places that sell shoe clip blanks as well, I just purchased them from Amazon because I live in a rural area which apparently doesn’t see much demand for shoe clips and the stores didn’t carry them! 🙂
One note of caution I do have, is that depending on the material of your shoe, metal clips may leave indentations or marks. If you have soft leather, or suede like I do, you may want to put some kind of “padding’ in between the clip and the shoe to keep it from getting ruined.
So, have you ever worn shoe clips? What do you think of them? And, would you want a pair of “coupon busters”?
Today I have a guest post to share with you all, and it is by none other than my very own sister, Sarah, who also blogs over at Just a Little Prayer. I have mentioned on the blog before, how she is a marvel at makeup, so we thought that it would be fun to create a vintage inspired makeup tutorial for you. This is a modern 1920’s makeup look that we have done before, and I love this look because it is so sparkly and dramatic in the style of the 1920’s, without giving the “racoon eye” look of the era, which usually only looks best in vintage photographs. (Although some people can definitely do that look successfully, it is not one that looks good on me!) So, without further ado, here is Sarah.
Hi Everyone! My name is Sarah, and I am Nicole’s sister. I have loved makeup for as long as I can remember, and have been experimenting with different looks for years. Today I am going to show you how simple it is to achieve a modern 1920’s makeup look with products that are probably in your makeup drawer already. I hope you enjoy it!
I have done this look on Nicole a few times, most recently in “Ready for Poiret’s ‘One Thousand and a Second Night’”, and for a 1920’s look in a recent guest post. It’s a super easy look that with practice could be done relatively quickly. (I’m naturally slow at such things, so I took a lot longer than the average person would. Maybe that was because we were having too much fun to concentrate on the task at hand.)
Left: Foundation and concealer applied. Right: The eyeshadow palette.
First I applied foundation and set it with powder, giving her skin a nice matte finish. I didn’t use blush for this look, but it’s up to you whether you want to. I next applied concealer where needed and also used it as an eye primer on the eyelids. This is a trick Pure Anada shared in one of their makeup tutorials: using concealer in place of a primer if you don’t have one.
Apply a light peachy eyeshadow to the entire lid.
After priming her eyelids I used a soft peachy eyeshadow with a fluffy blending brush to set the primer and to create a good base for building colour on. I applied the eyeshadow to the entire lid, but not to the browbone. You can use any neutral sort of colour for this.
Apply a soft, shimmery, beige shadow across the inner half of the lid up to the crease.
Next I applied a soft shimmer beige to the inner half of her eyelid up to the crease. I used a smaller brush for this so I could get better precision. The best part about this look is that it doesn’t have to be too perfect. Don’t worry if the colour goes a bit too dark or high, just take a clean brush and blend it out.
Apply a dark, shimmery brown in the crease and to the outer edge. (In a “c” shape.)
I then put a dark shimmery brown in the crease and outer edge of the eye. After blending the colour into the crease, I used a large eyeshadow brush to soften the edge of the brown.
The next step is to stop and have a tea break. Tea is an important part of any makeup look 🙂
Pot o’ Gold
Left: Use a tissue to catch any powder fall out. Right: The left eye does not have the gold glitter yet, and the right eye has the gold glitter applied. (And a strange brown mark?)
Having finished the base layer of colour, and adding some depth to the eye, it was time to add the gold. I used a loose powder eyeshadow for this part. Make sure you place a tissue across the bottom of your eye to catch any fallout from the shadow. I find it best to dip the brush in the loose shadow and then pat, not blend, the colour onto the eyelid. I patted the gold all across the lid, up to the crease of the eye, softly blending the edge with the brown eyeshadow. You can also add some gold eyeshadow along the bottom of your eye, if you would like. I didn’t do that with Nicole, but it could add a little more drama. If you don’t have gold glitter eyeshadow, use any other dramatic or sultry coloured eyeshadow colour you have. The 1920’s was all about drama, so pick anything that will give you the same moody effect.
Adding highlights to the lid. Apply to the inner corner and brow bone.
Next I added some shimmery cream eyeshadow to highlight the brow bone and inner corner of the eye. Use any light coloured shadow. Apply the shadow in the inner corner of the eye and across the brow bone.
This time we used the Master Kajal liner, but in the past have used a gel liner for the same results. This technique works well with both kinds of liner.
Left: Apply a messy line. Right: Smudge and blend the liner with a brush to get a smoky look.
Next, I used a pencil eyeliner to line the upper lids; don’t worry about making it perfect, I lined it rather messily. After lining her eyes I used a small flat brush to smudge it out. I made sure to blend it well, softening the colour into the gold eyeshadow. At this point you can also smudge some eyeliner along the bottom of your eye, concentrating most of the colour at the outer edge. This would help achieve the dramatic eye of the 1920’s.
Almost done! After I was done the bulk of the eye makeup, Nicole applied mascara. (I didn’t trust her to not poke me in the eye, in other words.)
Left: Choose a darker colour of lipstick for the 1920’s. Right: The finished makeup look!
To complete the 1920’s inspired look, I chose a dark lip colour. First I lined the lips, following the natural shape of her mouth. You can also draw the classic bow shape, if you prefer, and then apply lipstick.
The Modern 1920’s Makeup Look
And you are done! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial (my first ever!) and that you can have some fun with this look.
Pure Anada Black mascara (Ps. Honestly I was not happy with this mascara, and have since moved onto another Maybelline product I found that, happily, doesn’t contain any toxic chemicals!)
Lipstick: Mary Kay, True Dimensions (I was not happy with this product either, and have since returned the lipstick.)
One other note: I was not sponsored in any way for the making of this post (although that would have been nice!) These are all products I have purchased myself, and use daily 🙂 Except for the ones that I didn’t like. 🙁 -Nicole