The Reveal: Refashioners 2016 & Gertie’s Butterick 5882
Hooray! I didn’t wait until the last possible moment to finish up my entry for The Refashioner’s 2016. This is a record, I think. I was fully expecting myself to leave it to the last week, (day? hour?) but I actually finished this project up last Wednesday- with a full week and a half to spare! (Let’s just overlook the fact that it took me 8 weeks to get the project done, even though it actually only took three afternoons of sewing to construct it. . . hehe.)
When I first heard about the Refashioners 2016 challenge at the beginning of August, I was intrigued, but also a bit apprehensive. I am not a denim girl. I used to wear blue jeans all the time, but in the last few years, they haven’t found much of a place in my wardrobe. Not that I hate denim, I just don’t seem drawn to it as much as I used to be. I did at one point have a pair of skinnies that I liked to pair with my fur coat as it made me feel rather hip 😉 but they have worn out now, and the only other pair are designated for painting and other messy home renovation projects (designated as such, because they are covered in paint). So, even though I loved the idea of taking part in the challenge- I had to think seriously about what I could make that I would actually want to wear after I made it- and I came up with the answer: a retro styled bustier/playsuit top. (And just in time to put it away for winter too! What ridiculous timing. . . )
So, in case you are here only to see the details, here they are first, and then I will continue after this to ramble on about how I made it, what mistakes I made (what? mistakes!?), and whether I will make it again. Oh, and show you a billion more photos too.
The Low Down:
- Butterick Patterns by Gertie 5882 bodice pattern
- Dark denim bodice made out of the bottom cutoffs of my sister’s old jeans
- Light denim pleated inset made out of the back piece of the pant legs of my brother’s ripped jeans
- Floral lining made out of a remnant from a past project
- Boning leftover from a past project
- A recycled vintage zipper from the stash
- Thread we already owned
- Cost= $0.00, since everything was from the stash!
My inspiration, and details that I wanted to include in the final project:
- A winged “collar” or any other bust detail for interest
- 1″ crisscrossed or straight straps. No halter straps as I find they give me headaches 🙁
- Ideally, I wanted to make the top out of patterned or coloured denim, or utilize two different washes of blue denim for contrast and interest
- I thought about using topstitching or preserving some of the flatfelled seams, but it ended up coming across as “biker chick” rather than “vintage girl”
- I was nervous about sewing with a stretch denim, but decided to do it so the top would be more comfortable for hot summer days (note that this pattern is designed for woven, but I was able to sew the stretch just fine. I also cut my lining on the bias, so that it would have some stretch too.)
- I wanted to try out an exposed zipper, since I was planning on a centre back zipper anyways. Now that the exposed zipper trend is now. . . you know. . . going out of style and all that. I’ve never been one for following the trends anyways 😉
- In the spirit of the challenge, I wanted it to be made out of all recycled or remnant materials
photo source: 1, 2, 3 (my Grandma’s wedding dress) & 4
I have seen several fitted bodice tops like this before, such as this one from Deadly Dames, and I really like them, as they are an easy summer option to pair perfectly with 1950’s style skirts. My original plan was to take a tried-and-true dress pattern that I have, bone it, and then add a collar flip to the top neckline. This was a popular style of bodice in the 1950’s, as I have seen several patterns utilize a detail like that, and even my Grandma’s wedding dress from the 1950’s has a collar flip like that. The Sweetheart Sundress pattern from Gertie’s New Book for Better Sewing uses this detail as well. I’ve always liked this style, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to try it out. Well, as you can see from the finished garment, I obviously didn’t end up sticking with that plan, and here’s why.

Left: the failed first try. Right: so many different colours in one pair of jeans!
I started with an old faded pair of stretch jeans from my sister, (just to test things out first) cut out the pattern, sewed it up, tried it on, and then decided that it just didn’t have enough structure (as I was planning to wear this without any other underpinnings). It just felt like the bodice was the wrong shape, even with the addition of boning, and I thought that I would always feel slightly uncomfortable wearing it. I also wasn’t happy with the shape of the top neckline. After fiddling with it for a while, I decided to change plans. (Which is not unheard of during my sewing projects!)

Top: The cutoffs, lining and zipper. Right: I don’t think anyone minded me cutting these jeans up. Used for the inset bust detail. Right: Butterick 5882 pattern
The other option I had run across when deciding what to make for the challenge, was the bodice of Gertie’s Butterick 5882 pattern. I had not used this pattern before, but have wanted to for a while. We got it when it first came out which was. . . a few years ago, and there it was still waiting in the pattern drawer. This was the perfect project to try the pattern out on, and get all of the potential fitting issues out of the way, before I committed to making the dress out of a more expensive material. I am happy to say that we did manage to get the majority of the fitting issues out of the way, so next time should be a breeze. Also, it was an exciting pattern to make, as it was my first time using boning, sewing a shelf bust style, and sewing with a heavier denim material.

Left: Pattern placement on the denim cutoffs- perfect amount of material! Right: A bit too much ease I would say. . .
I chose to cut out the pattern at a size 16, as I thought it would be better to cut it out one size too big, as a test run, than a size too small. However, when I basted the seams up and tried it on . . . there was a lot of ease. I could’ve omitted the two back pieces and it still would have fit. So, I cut the pieces down to a size 12, which fit much better, though I did still end up taking some material out of the centre front pieces, the sides and the back to get better fit. I also sewed the front seams with a curve as pictured (below) for a nice smooth front. Also note, since this was a refashioning project and I was working with limited material, I cut the centre front piece as two separate pieces, and seamed it up the front.

Top: I curved the front seams in a little bit, for a closer fit. Bottom: The boning sewn into place on the lining.
Once we had gotten the majority of the bodice fitting down, the rest of the top went together pretty straightforwardly. The boning went in much easier than I was anticipating. I don’t know what I was anticipating, but I was expecting it to be hard, I guess. The kind of boning I used had a pre-sewn channel which was nice. Considering how nice of a fit, and the structure that the boning created, I am now hooked and thinking of all the other projects I can bone! I now see why so many vintage patterns use boning- it just makes a really nice structured bodice, eliminates crumpling and fits really well.

Left: The ill fated seam of doom. I sewed it wrong, but it was also very thick! There were a lot of layers of denim in that seam. Right: You can see the exposed raw edge a bit in this picture (right where the strap meets the front). It is covered from the right side by the strap. Bottom: Sewing the strap down covered up the problem.
The bra pieces went together nicely, with no problems there, but are you ready for the mistake I mentioned? 🙁 I lost track of where my notches were, and accidentally trimmed the seams, so when I sewed the front pleated bra pieces on to the bodice bottom, I placed them too close to the edge, which meant that the raw edges couldn’t be completely encased in the lining seam. At this point though (it was several steps down the road when I realized the mistake and I had already graded the seams) I was not about to take it apart again and move them in. So, instead, to save the situation, I just flipped the straps down instead of twisting them like the pattern calls for. I don’t mind the look, even though it did widen out the neckline more than originally planned. I have seen these bustier tops with every kind of strap under the sun, though, so no one will even notice. Right? I also stitched the straps down all around the front, underneath the inset too, as it kept trying to flip up. I also decided to criss cross the straps across the back, so that I will not have a problem with them slipping off my shoulders.

Top Left: Removing the teeth from the zipper (sounds painful!) Top Right: The correct length. Bottom Left: Sewing in the zipper. Bottom Right: Slipstitching the lining over the raw edges of the back zipper seam.
As I mentioned at the beginning, I wanted to include an exposed zipper up the back. My criteria for a zipper was one that had brass teeth, as I think that it suits the denim better than a silver zipper would. (And I’m not much of a silver girl anyways.) I originally was going to purchase a navy, separating zipper with brass teeth, since we didn’t already have one that was the correct colour. But apparently, a navy zipper with brass teeth is an impossible thing to want. So, all options exhausted, I looked through the stash again, and found this lovely aged one that came from who knows where. Originally it had been rejected, since it is khaki not navy, but then I decided that it would work fine, and would be even better than purchasing a new zipper as it would keep in the spirit of recycling and reusing. It was too long, but I simply removed some of the teeth with pliers, reinserted the zipper stop, and cut it to size and it works perfectly. Once the zipper was sewn in- I was done! And then I had to wait a few days to take these pictures, because it decided to be fall time all of a sudden.
So, would I make this pattern again? Yes! In fact, my original plan for the refashion was to not use blue denim at all, but to use a tan and cream, polka dot pair of jeans I found at the thrift store. However, once I had had the one detour along the way, I decided to continue making the top out of the old denim scraps, instead of cutting into the other pair. That way I could work out any kinks along the way, and then when I cut into the polka dot pair, I can avoid the mistakes of the first trial run. So basically, this denim one is a wearable muslin, and the polka dot one is going to be the next project! Also, I like how this pattern goes together, and fits, so I am planning on making it at some point as a dress, as it was originally designed to be 🙂
So, in conclusion, I am really glad that I found out about the Refashioners 2016 challenge in time to take part this year. I liked the challenge of using a material I would normally not be drawn to, and finding a way around those limitations to end up with a garment that I like- and I do really like how this top turned out. It is completely different than anything I have in my wardrobe, and after looking at it for a while- maybe I am more of a denim girl than I thought I was at first!
So did any of you participate in the Refashioners 2016 Challenge? Or, even if you didn’t take part in the contest, have you ever refashioned something into something completely different? And, what are your thoughts towards denim? Is denim something you are drawn to, or like me, would it take a bit of convincing to make it a part of your wardrobe?

Complimentary windy weather petticoat

A very awkward photograph. . .
September 27, 2016 @ 6:24 am
I would buy this gorgeous top if it was on sale!! I have a real thing for denim separates; they’re comfy and they can make an outfit look casual enough to be everyday, even if the style itself is dressy. So naturally this is perfection to me and I’m very impressed 🙂
September 28, 2016 @ 3:13 pm
Thanks! I recall seeing your lovely denim pencil skirt in your recent post 🙂 I never really thought of denim being something that I would incorporate into my vintage wardrobe, but you are right- it totally works!
September 27, 2016 @ 7:27 am
Wow! You have done a brilliant job on this make! Seriously perfect!
September 28, 2016 @ 3:14 pm
Thanks so much Christina! Though it is definitely not perfect 😉 haha.
September 27, 2016 @ 10:37 am
Really lovely result! Super pretty and very much upcycling of the original denim! 🙂
September 28, 2016 @ 3:15 pm
Thank you. It was interesting to create something so completely different than the original garment!
September 27, 2016 @ 4:19 pm
This looks fabulous on you. I’m not sure I would wear it myself, as I prefer a bit more coverage myself. And I love your sunglasses! I must know where they came from! These photos are just stunning.
September 28, 2016 @ 3:18 pm
Thanks Elizabeth. It is a bit lower than I would normally wear too- so I will probably raise the top a bit the next time around. 🙂
Regarding the sunglasses- I bought them online a few years ago, but I wasn’t very happy with either the quality or the customer service of the company (the prescription was wrong 🙁 and I ended up paying way too much for them) So, I am hesitant to tell you where they are from, however maybe if you don’t get the prescription lenses, they will work out for you better. The company is called Lookmatic.
September 27, 2016 @ 4:45 pm
Wow Nicole! This looks absolutely amazing! And I can’t believe how many firsts you’ve cracked with just one garment – you’re braver than me haha.
I’d normally steer clear of denim too (that’s why I didn’t take part in the refashioners!) so I think it’s particularly impressive that you’ve managed to make something that so perfectly suits you from it.
Xx
September 28, 2016 @ 3:22 pm
Thanks so much Shauni! I was rather hesitant to take part in the challenge too, as I didn’t think of denim as something that I could incorporate into my wardrobe, or would ever wear, but I surprised myself and ended up with something that I think will be rather versatile. As for being brave, well, there was a lot of learning too 😉
September 27, 2016 @ 6:45 pm
Great job, Nicole! The style, fit, and color looks good on you! I didn’t participate since I still don’t use those forms of social media. But I do have a denim jumper that I would like to refashion. I don’t have much denim. I used to wear it a lot. Anyway, I hope you win. 🙂
September 28, 2016 @ 3:25 pm
Ahh yes- social media. I actually joined instagram solely so I can participate in the challenges and tags that circulate there! But that, and this blog, is the extent of my social media involvement 😉 A denim jumper sounds fun, so good luck on the refashioning project! And thanks for the good wishes on my entry too!
September 27, 2016 @ 7:38 pm
This is a stunning top, and you did a fabulous job on it! If I saw that in a store (any store!) I would buy it. I adore boning in vintage clothes, too. Well done!
September 28, 2016 @ 3:26 pm
Boning does just add that extra oomph to clothing doesn’t it? And thank-you for your kind words on my make, Sheila 🙂
September 28, 2016 @ 7:43 am
This looks fantastic! Great job. It pairs beautifully with the skirt too!
September 28, 2016 @ 3:28 pm
Thanks Emileigh! I think the top will coordinate with a lot of my skirts, but I do love it paired with this one too 🙂
September 28, 2016 @ 10:50 am
Super lovely outfit! It’s so chic and eye-catchingly fun. Bustier/crop tops look amazing on you!!! I bet this denim one is going to be as versatile as a pair of jeans. I really appreciate how in depth you go with detailing your makes and your outfits alike, including your inspiration sources. That’s just brilliant and so much for those of us who enjoy the “behind the scenes” factors that go into an ensemble.
Oodles of hugs,
♥ Jessica
September 28, 2016 @ 3:30 pm
Thanks so much for your sweet comments on the top! I do think that this one will be rather versatile, as denim does just seem to go with everything doesn’t it? Also, I’m glad you enjoy the “behind the scenes”, as I am sometimes not sure whether to include it all in my posts. So, duly noted and I will make sure to include them in the future too 🙂
October 1, 2016 @ 3:04 am
Wow, this is wonderful! You did so well and you look gorgeous! I haven’t worn denim in so many years, I swapped to cords at one point, but haven’t worn those in a very long time either xx
October 3, 2016 @ 9:29 am
Thank you so much Melanie. I wasn’t sure about the denim, as I also haven’t worn denim in years either, but I am kind of liking it now 🙂
October 2, 2016 @ 1:12 pm
You look amazing! What an incredible upgrade to an old pair of jeans. You are such a talented sewer, and I’m consistently impressed by your vision and your sense of style.
October 3, 2016 @ 9:43 am
I think it was a bit of an upgrade from the old pair too 😉 And thank-you so much for your sweet comment Jessica.
October 3, 2016 @ 8:18 am
Oh wow! This is beautiful! I am so jealous of your skills! Great work – that bodice is just breathtaking!
October 3, 2016 @ 9:47 am
Thank-you so much SaraLily! It was my first time doing a lot of the techniques and using this pattern so I was a bit nervous!!
October 8, 2016 @ 10:12 am
WOWZA! This is so stunning it makes me rethink not wanting to wear denim anymore!
October 8, 2016 @ 11:42 am
Thanks Carlee! It was a different kind of project for sure, but I am definitely starting to see the virtues of denim too 🙂
October 11, 2016 @ 10:38 am
All sorts of applause for you here! I am continually in awe of people who sew (I mean, I sew, but not with the frequency of others I know) and even more so of those who can refashion! So BRAVO!
xoxo
-Janey
October 11, 2016 @ 10:59 am
Thanks Janey! It was a really crazy sewing project. I’m not sure I sew with frequency either! I tend to take a veeerrrryyy long time to finish up a sewing project 🙂 I have seen the things you’ve sewn before on your blog, and they always look so lovely!
October 12, 2016 @ 3:07 pm
This is such a fabulous refashion! The top looks great, I like all the little details. I can see that it is something you could get lots of wear from which doesn’t always happen with refashioned things. You are a very talented sewer!
October 13, 2016 @ 6:57 pm
Thanks so much Kate-Em! Definitely true about sometimes not getting a lot of wear out of refashioned things. Sometimes the end result doesn’t quite live up to the expectation, does it?