Shopping Ethically for Vintage Repro
Fashion Revolution Week finished up almost exactly a month ago now, and though I had originally planned to share some of the 2017 stats etc. as well as some of the highlights of the global event, that information hasn’t been released yet by Fashion Revolution. So instead, today I would like to share some of what I learned and researched during Fashion Revolution about several vintage repro (reproduction) brands, and how to successfully shop vintage and repro with an ethical mindset.
I know I’ve mentioned it so many times before, but shopping true vintage and second hand is an inherently ethical way to shop. The clothing already exists, so by shopping second hand, you are giving it a second life. Where it gets tricky is in new clothing. Clothing made up into the 1980’s was for the most part produced in an ethical way. So much of the mass produced clothing of earlier eras was made domestically, not outsourced to factories in other countries. You see many of the vintage clothing ads selling garments based on quality, proclaiming things like dresses “made of good quality fabric”, shoes that feature “unusual durability”, and one of Sears children’s brand was even called “Ucanttear”, which was made to withstand the rigours of children at play.
There were abuses within the textile and fashion industry of course, dating back to the 1800’s, which is why we see union labels in many vintage garments. For the most part, though, clothing was not suspect. You didn’t automatically assume back then, like today’s clothing landscape, that clothing was unethically made. Today, every $5 t-shirt and $30 dress that sports the tag “Made in Bangladesh” is questionable. It might not actually be the case, because there are plenty of factories that are safe and paying a living wage (one factory in India even took part in Fashion Revolution Week) but, because of the abuses we have seen over and over again in the industry, with cheaply produced clothing made at the expense of the garment workers, we now tend to presume guilty until proven innocent, not the other way around.
One of the problems I find with so many sustainable fashion brands today, is that they are so modern, and hardly any of their clothing fits into my personal style. I love vintage silhouettes and styles, not unstructured, loose, trendy clothes. So, I decided this Fashion Revolution Week to ask the question “Who Made My Clothes” to a few vintage repro companies, to hear what they had to say. I also researched a few other companies to come up with this small list (I am sure there are plenty more) of companies who are making their clothing in an ethical manner.
As a disclaimer, while I would not consider these companies to be “sustainable” since that they don’t share their supply chain, where the cloth and materials come from, or what the environmental impact of their dyeing processes and farming processes are. However I would still consider them to be ethical from a human rights point of view.
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The brand Heart of Haute is made in the USA. They have several locations in LA and many of their employees are actually fashion graduates. The garments are “cut to order in San Dimas and assembled by three contract sewing shops in the Los Angeles area”. This way, not only are they supplying local jobs, but they can proudly say ‘Made in the USA”. They do not share their supply chain, but they claim to make high quality garments, designed to last. I would agree with that statement, since last year I purchased a blouse from Heart of Haute. Sadly, I ended up returning it, as I realized that it was too tight and the buttons pulled on the front. The blouse was made of a smooth and sturdy cotton, and all of the seams were finished nicely. The blouse included details like a tie front, and covered buttons, as well as dart shaping so it wouldn’t ride up. I truly do think that it would have been a long lasting purchase. All in all, if I were to come across another item I liked from Heart of Haute, I would not hesitate to buy it.
Another brand which I have tried on in person at a store, is the brand Retrospec’d, which is made in Australia. On their website, they say “All Retrospec’d garments are made in Australia to the very highest standard. The majority of the fabrics themselves are the product of many months spent finding colours and design elements that are “just right”. The result is fresh, vintage-inspired fashion that simply can’t be found anywhere else in the world.” The dresses I saw were made of a lighter cotton sateen, which had a very nice finish and drape, and many of them had border prints, which are always fun. I can’t recall how the insides were finished, but I think that the dresses were lined- I know that the bodice on the 1950’s full skirted dress I tried on was lined in the same fabric as the outside of the dress was (minus the border print). I didn’t end up purchasing the dress, as it didn’t fit well, (sadly!) but had it fit, I believe I would have purchased it. These dresses are definitely more of an investment, but I think that for a well made garment, ethically made in Australia, and with so many yards of fabric in the skirt, and fun touches like border prints, it is well worth it.
A company I have not purchased from (or tried on any of their garments) is Emily and Fin. I know that Nora from Nora Finds owns a few dresses from Emily and Fin, and that she likes them. I was pleasantly surprised to discover on Emily and Fin’s website, a page which states that to ensure their products “are made to the best standard possible and in a safe working environment, we aim to work alongside like-minded businesses; visiting them regularly in order to build strong working relationships and guarantee best practice of manufacture and care” and that all of their pieces are “designed and developed in-house in our London studio” taking the time and care to “ensure a high level of attention is paid to the fit and quality of each garment.” It sounds like they are committed to producing well made, quality items. This seems to be confirmed with a browse through their website, (in which I wanted to add so many items to my cart). They have garments made of fabrics like Tencel (which is a natural and usually eco friendly fabric), viscose (another natural fibre) and 100% cotton (though no mention of organic cotton). Again, the prices are an investment, but this is for a high quality, natural fibre garment, made in ethical conditions. The styles are elegant and timeless, so a dress or blouse from Emily and Fin would definitely withstand the trends.
A company I just found out about from Porcelina’s recent post, is Pretty Retro. This is a UK brand, which offers “affordable, wearable clothing without compromising on style or quality.” And that it is “one of a family of brands run by 20th Century Clothiers Ltd. based in the North of England. All garments are ethically manufactured in Europe and to a high standard.” There are a lot of companies in the UK, which sport the tag “Made in England” etc. I don’t live in the UK, so that doesn’t help me much, but for my UK based readers, this might help you! I can’t testify to the quality of their items, but Porcelina mentioned that she already considers her purchase of their tie top to be a “great staple”, and after a few washes, it seems to be holding up well. They have some fun and pretty styles, and don’t seem to be too badly priced either.
The last vintage repro company I got an answer back from, is Collectif. This is a very popular UK brand, and though I have never purchased anything from them yet, I was interested in one of their garments. I sent them an email about it, and received a reply back right away from their helpful customer service staff. In regards to a specific item I was looking at, they said “it is made in our own facility in China (as with most of our garments.) We work closely with all of our factories to ensure that the garments are ethically made. We have our own facility in China with a team who manage our production. Some of our production and design team have visited our factories there and seen first hand that the working conditions are ethical and the company owner and Chinese Facility Manager visit the factories every week.” They also have a page here in their FAQ’s that outlines their policy. I wouldn’t say that Collectif is a sustainable fashion brand quite yet, as they don’t make any mention of environmental credentials etc, but it is great to see them taking a step in the right direction, by using ethical fashion processes, and also making that information available on their website for the customer to see, without even having to ask. I decided against purchasing the garment I had been looking at, for now, but if I came across something I liked, I might decide to purchase from them. I know plenty of other bloggers have been very happy with their Collectif purchases.
Edited to add: Since originally writing this, I would say that Collectif isn’t doing anything that sets them apart as sustainable or fair trade. Brands that say they pay the garment workers minimum wage etc. isn’t something to be congratulated about- that’s just following the law. So, while they are saying that they have visited the factories etc.- they are still outsourcing their production. That may not necessarily be bad- but it’s not really great either.
Those are the companies I heard back from. Two companies whom I never received a reply from are Trashy Diva and Retrolicious. Trashy Diva’s garments are designed in the US, but they make no mention of where they are made- and since I never got a reply back from them, I unfortunately can’t tell you! Do any of you know?
I also asked Joe Fresh, a Canadian brand, where their clothes were made, but did not receive any reply back from them either. I wasn’t really expecting to, but it is too bad, as they have so many cute styles- but have a terrible track record of human rights abuses. I used to purchase a lot of clothes from them years ago, before I knew about “cheap, fast fashion”, but I don’t buy from them anymore.
So what was the one thing I learned during Fashion Revolution Week? You can ask “Who made my clothes” all year round, and if you don’t see the information on a company’s website, you can ask them directly. It’s so obvious, but somehow I had just never really thought about it before. We can do our homework, and research brands, but if we don’t find a satisfactory answer we can also ask companies directly. And sometimes, if you ask the question, you might be pleasantly surprised by the answer.
Fashion Revolution Week may be over for this year, but Fashion Revolution is not! I know that this is not an exhaustive list of ethical vintage repro companies, so if you know of other companies that are producing ethically made clothing, let us all know in the comments! I’d love to find new repro brands to buy from.
And, if you want to ask a brand yourself, about their clothing production methods, here is an outline of the letter that I emailed to the brands:
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“I have been wearing vintage styles for a few years now, and I love that there are vintage reproduction companies making beautiful vintage inspired garments today.
“I have in the past purchased _____ from you,” or “I have never purchased from you before, even though I Iove so many of your styles, and I have seen a fair number of vintage bloggers feature outfits by you.” However the one thing I couldn’t find any information about, is where the clothing is made.
The most important concern I have when deciding to purchase new clothing, is in making sure that is produced in an ethical and sustainable way. I want to make sure that when I wear something I feel great about it, not just because it is a lovely style, but because I know that the people who made it are being treated in a fair manner. Where are your garments being made? Are they being made in an ethical manner? I would love to know that those who make the clothes are being treated fairly, have the freedom to speak out, work in safe conditions and are being paid a living wage in order to live with dignity, opportunity and hope.
Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions!
Sincerely, ____ (your name)”
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What are your top ethically made vintage repro brands? Have you ever purchased from any of these vintage repro brands? Have you ever asked a brand where their clothes are made?
May 28, 2017 @ 11:31 am
Such a great post Nicole! I have actually asked some of these same questions to a few other vintage repro companies – I will email you about their responses, I’m very interested in this topic and want to suggest a little project! xx
May 28, 2017 @ 10:44 pm
Thanks Porcelina! I was glad to see that you had the review of the company Pretty Retro the other day- so I added it to my list last minute. 🙂
I would love to hear some more about the companies you have talked to- I look forward to your email!
May 29, 2017 @ 11:23 am
I wrestle with this issue every time I want to buy repro, which is much more suitable to my lifestyle than true vintage, but I find it hard to know how good I want a company to be. I’ve emailed Collectif too and received a similar reply, but I wasn’t satisfied with it. ‘To Die For” made me very cynical and suspicious about factory inspections and I’m inclined to believe that unless ethics are at the core of the business and they make a big deal about it, then it won’t really be good enough.
But, as you say, the companies that do good things on all fronts (labour, environment etc) aren’t usually my style, and even my own making usually doesn’t involve great textiles, so you have to draw a line somewhere! Some virtue is better than none, right?
I know the ready to wear Wearing History garments are made in the US and Lauren was very open about the whole process on her blog. I often end up gravitating towards these small companies and one-woman-shows because at least I can know who made them, but the price reflects that.
Ahh I could go on for ages, but I’d better stop!
May 30, 2017 @ 10:18 am
I completely agree with all you have said here. And I could go on and on for ages too!
I have not read “To Die For” yet, but “Overdressed” also made me really aware of the abuses in factory inspections etc.
At the end of the day, I think that it really comes down to what each person can do. You do have to draw the line somewhere (otherwise we would all need to join a nudist colony!) and for each person that might be different. To tell the truth, my clothing is mostly thrifted or handmade. I rarely buy new clothing, but if I am going to be buying new clothing, I want it to be at least partially good. The companies that took the time to answer my questions, may not be as good as they could be, (I would not consider any of them to be sustainable companies, and they don’t have the transparency I would like to see brands having) but I would rather buy something from them, than from the companies who never even took the time to answer my questions. (Which automatically made me think they had something to hide).
I never buy clothing online, so most of the companies that I asked the questions of are brands I can find in a local retro shop. But if I were to buy clothing online, I would love to seek out the “one woman show” companies you mentioned too.
Hopefully one day “Who made my clothes” is a question that won’t have to be asked!
June 10, 2017 @ 10:10 pm
Definitely. Making any positive choice and informing yourself as best you can is really important. And I’m more of a handmade and second-hand fan too 🙂
May 31, 2017 @ 6:34 pm
Thank you for this lovely post! It is so nice to buy things without guilt about their origin, and even better for them to be vintage inspired!
May 31, 2017 @ 11:36 pm
You are welcome and I am glad you enjoyed it. I hope that one day vintage repro companies will have some of the same vintage outlooks too- in regards to ethics and quality- and not just style!
June 1, 2017 @ 8:57 pm
THIS! Everything! This post is everything. Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!
xoxo
-Janey
June 3, 2017 @ 6:37 pm
You are most welcome! It’s not exhaustive, but I’m so glad it was able to help you 🙂
June 7, 2017 @ 12:57 pm
Thank you so much for some new repro labels to add to my list. I would add these to your possibilities:
Loco Lindo – Made in LA. I have a couple very nice quality 40s-style rayon crepe dresses
I do not own, but like the looks/ethics of:
Prettie Lanes by Franziska Schlupski – Made in Switzerland
Whirling Turban – “Made by skilled seamstresses in Bali”
Heyday! Vintage Style Clothing – Made in the UK and New Zealand
June 8, 2017 @ 11:32 pm
Oh- thank-you so much for these other companies too! I have heard of Prettie Lanes and Heyday before (but didn’t remember to add them to my list), but the others are new to me. It’s so encouraging to see that there are actually quite a few options, once you start looking!
August 7, 2018 @ 2:45 pm
Trashy Diva is made in China. While Collectif state they use their own factory, I recently received an item that had a musty smell which reminded me of items made cheaply to sell on AliExpress. I’m wary now.
August 8, 2018 @ 5:35 pm
Thanks for letting me know! That’s too bad 🙁
I actually am going to edit this post because, since writing it, I have learned a lot more about ethical clothing manufacturing, and I don’t think that many of these brands really fit the standards.
November 11, 2018 @ 10:26 am
Thanks for this post! I find it so difficult to find companies that are open about their practices. At the end of the day, even when they reply to our e-mails, we cannot confirm their statements, but at least brands like Miss Candyfloss and King Louie have more to say on the matter than other brands. On the other hand, can anything made outside of North America or North Western Europe truly be ethical?
I got pretty much the same reply from Collectif and was not convinced. But today I found the code of conduct on the TopVintage online store: https://static.topvintage.net/files/Agreement_workingconditions_suppliers_of_TV_GB_VD.pdf?_ga=2.260047311.338267245.1541954286-1711092876.1538077017
It’s still quite vague, I guess, but since they also sell Collectif should we still consider that better than nothing. It’s so hard to make good decisions, especially if you’re on a budget.
December 16, 2018 @ 6:15 pm
I agree 100%! I often find that the best way to shop ethically on a budget is secondhand. Thanks for sharing the link and taking the time to comment!